Kaya
coconut
jam
Kaya
is
a
Malaysian
coconut
and
egg
yolk
curd-like
jam,
and
it
deserves
(in
my
sweet
opinion)
first
place
on
the
podium
of
caramel
champions.
It
is
scented
with
the
transcendent
and
inimitable
flavour
of
pandan
leaf – a
strappy
plant
that
is
verdant
and
tropical.
Imagine
a
coconut
flower
chopped
up
with
fresh
cut
grass – that’s
pandan.
It
always
seems
to
make
coconut
more,
um,
coconutty.
And
while
we
are
talking
about
coconut,
make
sure
you
use
coconut
cream
for
this,
not
milk
(the
can
will
be
labelled
100
per
cent
coconut – no
water,
no
nothing
else).
Don’t
shake
the
tin
or
disturb
the
thick
top
layer – we
want
to
scoop
that
thick
cream
to
make
a
spreadable
(not
dribbly)
kaya.
Coconut
sugar
is
a
simpatico
sweetener,
adding
a
complex
caramel
tone
that’s
savoury,
yet
not.
My
cooking
method
is
very,
very
slow
on
a
very,
very
low
heat
– that’s
the
only
way
I
can
get
the
thick
consistency
I
desire,
but
you
can
cook
it
a
little
faster
if
you
don’t
mind
it
being
a
little
runny.
Once
made,
use
it
EVERYWHERE!
On
the
Toasted
coconut
+
kaya
tres
leches
(page 169),
as
a
filling
for
yeasted
scrolls,
in
doughnut
glazes
or
sponge
fillings.
Bring
5
cm
(2
in)
of
water
to
the
barest
simmer
in
a
20
cm
(8
in)
wide
saucepan.
Choose
a
heatproof
bowl
that
will
nestle
on
the
top
of
the
saucepan
without
touching
the
water
below,
and
a
lid
to
fit
the
bowl.
(If
you
don’t
have
a
lid,
use
foil
to
cover.)
In
the
bowl
over
the
double
boiler,
hand
whisk
the
yolks,
sugar,
coconut
cream
and
salt
together
briefly
until
the
mixture
is
smooth
and
the
yolks
are
completely
emulsified.
Tie
two
knots
in
the
pandan
leaf
lengthways
and
place
that
in
the
bowl
too.
Cover
with
the
lid.
Knotting
the
pandan
frays
the
fibres,
releasing
the
scent – think
torn
herb
leaves.
It
also
makes
leaf
removal
easier
at
the
end.
continued
…
Keeps
One
month,
always
chilled.
Can
be
frozen
and
defrosted
in
the
fridge.
Makes
Just
under
400
g
(14
o
z).
Takes
Around
1
hour,
then
chill
to
thicken
fully.
100
g
(3½
oz)
egg
yolk
(from
approx.
5
eggs)
100
g
(3½
oz)
coconut
sugar,
or
palm
sugar
200
g
(7
oz)
coconut
cream
(100%
coconut
with
no
water),
just
the
thick
top
layer
3
g
(¹
⁄
₁₀
oz/heaped
¼
teaspoon)
fine
sea
salt
1
pandan
leaf